Hiking Mount Humphrey via The Inner Basin

Hiking Mount Humphrey via Lockett Meadow unleashes a few more challenges than just a 15 mile round trip hike. Given the altitude that affects many people, it's a good idea to camp out in Lockett Meadow at least a night before so that you can accumulate yourself to the altitude. A good night's sleep though is easier said than done, as the temperatures in late May and early June can easily dip into the 20s overnight. That being said, an air mattress becomes useless as the air inside of it will recreate the effect of sleeping on a frozen lake. So a 20-degree rated sleeping becomes essential for a good night's sleep, as does a comfortable mat to absorb the rocks that would otherwise be poking you in your sleep. It's also a good idea to avoid hiking too deep into the summer as thunderstorms form much easier in the summer months, and there's nothing worse than hiking half a day up Arizona's highest peak only to be forced to turn back within 1000 feet of the summit because of a thunderstorm.

Assuming you don't have any issues with sleeping, you can wake up looking out over a green meadow as birds fill the air with constant, soothing chattering and chirping. With the sun still behind the mountains to the east, a good but quick breakfast is a good idea. With such an expeditious hike awaiting at the top of Arizona, it's always a good idea to begin hiking before the sun crests the eastern peaks of the meadow. While it may not be monsoon season just yet, a stray afternoon thunderstorm is never an impossibility, even if the sky is a crystal clear blue upon awakening.

The journey begins on one of three panoramically scenic trails, The Inner Basin Trail. It begins the first 3.9 miles of the hike, climbing just over 2000 feet before joining up with the Weatherford Trail and later the Humphrey Trail to complete the final four miles up to the summit. What starts out as an awe-inspiring hike through an aspen and ponderosa pine-filled forest only continues to get better with the gains in elevation, and the difficulty in breathing. The forest towers over the trail providing excellent shade from the sun and keeping you cool as the air becomes increasingly thinner.

A couple of miles in after rounding out a turn, the Inner Basin Meadow comes into full view, as does the Mount Humphrey peak. The meadow is an excellent place to stop for an extended break to catch your breath and have a small meal while admiring the highest peaks in Arizona that have now formed an enormous barrier all around you. Black bear have even been known to roam in this area after sniffing out picnic foods. For that reason and also because of the amount of hiking still awaiting, you'll want to keep moving once you've had a bite to eat and caught your breath.

The trail continues its gradual ascent and now where aspens and pines used to be, are now firs prospering in the melting patches of snow that begin to dot the side of the trail. At roughly 3.5 miles in, the trail makes a 90 degree turn and for the next quarter to half-mile, begins a steep climb through a much narrower trail in the forest of firs and bristlecone. The small patches of snow that were once dotting the trail and providing nice surprises have now become much more frequent and expected, and with the sun peeking through the trees, has also been busy all Spring melting it away leaving muddy streams in the middle of the trails.

The scenery doesn't change much as the Inner Basin Trail meets up with the Weatherford Trail close to four miles in. Instead, at about 10,000 feet, the air becomes noticeably thinner as breathing becomes much more difficult. Slowing your pace to help you adjust isn't a bad idea. It's not too much farther though to the Freemont Saddle, where a large clearing offers up an excellent view of the Inner Basin on one side, and Oak Creek Canyon on the other. On the edges of the clearing are some old, rusted car parts that were leftover from the days of John W. Weatherford, for whom the trail is named after. In the early part of the 20th century, he would drive people the full distance up the Weatherford Trail to show the views that would later force so many hikers to work so hard for. The road was eventually closed off to traffic to preserve the wilderness of the San Francisco Peaks.

The Freemont Saddle for many people becomes the destination when the reality of hiking another two miles above 10,000 feet begins to set in. For others, it's another extended lunch break and a chance to rest before beginning the hardest and most exhausting stretch of the hike. It doesn't take very long at all after the saddle to see the trees begin to shrink all around you. What once were dominating firs providing ample shade now begin to thin out, leaving the trail more exposed as the trees begin to fade away.

With the trees disappearing, the ground grows looser and harder. The dirt that was there for the trees is now gone, replaced by volcanic rocks ranging from marble sized, to football sized. The only plants you'll see up here are plants that are often found in the tundra. The only reminders you have that you're still in Arizona are the majestic views unfolding as you drag yourself up one of the lengthiest switchbacks you'll ever hike, scaling the side of Mount Agassiz. Beyond the Inner Basin, Sunset Crater, and on clear days, the Painted Desert come into view, no longer blocked out by the forested trees. It's not long at all until the trees are all but behind, and below you. The air is increasingly thin at this altitude and you will notice in addition to your pace slowing, some threatening afternoon clouds building up in what was a completely clear sky in the morning.

A small relief comes when you're able to descend about 100-200 feet on your way to the Weatherford, Mount Humphrey trail intersection. It's a welcome change of pace, as moving downhill is significantly easier in higher altitudes than hiking uphill. Unfortunately though, just as quickly as it started, it's over, leaving you at the hardest and most challenging part of the hike. Resting at the Agassiz saddle, you're given outstanding views of the Inner Basin, Sunset Crater, the Painted Desert and even the Grand Canyon before the final mile long trek up the hardest 800 foot elevation gain of the hike. It's also at this saddle the full effect of the caldera that you just came from can really be appreciated.

Pressing on, the clouds begin to get darker. The threat of rain becomes a bit more ominous as the clouds now block out the sun. Many would welcome the rain, except that lightning almost always comes with it, and above the tree line, there's nowhere to hide. If it ever starts raining on you above the tree line, run back down. You're much better off back in the protection of the forest.

At 11,800 feet and climbing, exhaustion comes with every step, weighing down your legs so much that only will power will keep them moving. Signs provide reminders that you're in a completely different type of atmosphere, stating, "Fragile tundra. Please stay on trails." False summit after false summit tease and taunt throughout three-quarters of that last mile, until finally, drained of almost all your energy, the summit comes into full view. It's a painfully sweet sight as it's now so close, but still so far. You want to start running to it, but there's just no energy. Slowly but surely, it gets closer and closer. The specks that were once on top of the summit now resemble people moving around or resting. As loose rocks spill down the side of the mountain from a lost step every now and then, the final ascent has at last arrived. As tempting as it is to run up, the energy once again, just isn't there. It doesn't matter at this point though, as the summit is now under your feet, standing at 12,633 feet above sea level with views of many of Arizona's most significant landmarks below you in the distance. The view justifies itself as entirely worth the effort.